Dear Reader,

We now have four Swallows singing from our electricity line, chasing each other through the air. The Grasshopper Warblers surround us, and the spring flowers are in full bloom — a Giant Orchid on the loop, Wild Garlic down by the river, and Primroses gracing every grassy patch they can put roots down in.

There are Cuckoo flowers in abundance too, but we are yet to hear one… I (Katie) had a very strange dream that I had heard a Cuckoo, only to realise it was someone playing a recording — a cruel trick, and hopefully not an omen. Thanks to the BTO, I’ve seen that they are on their way at least.​

Last night, in our family group, my Mummy shared that the Picos de Europa had been chosen, on some tally or other, as number one in the world’s most beautiful places.

As much as we love our home, we felt that some balancing of the scales was necessary - not least because Asturias, particularly, is pushing tourism without the infrastructure or the local mindsets to support it.

1. The Río Sella Canoeing

When we first arrived here, our landlady told us: if you can survive the month of rain and the summer, you’ll be able to live here.

The truth is, the rain has become less and less each year. Although it was tricky in those early years (when we weren’t set up to withstand any sort of adverse weather), it has become far less of a problem for us.

In contrast, the summers have become harder and harder - with one of the greatest sadnesses being the destruction of the beautiful Río Sella through unchecked canoeing.

From June through August, it can be hard to see water for plastic boats and bodies, with over 6,000 boats descending each day at peak season. There are no toilets along the way, and by Ribadesella the water is described as a toilet. The wildlife is non-existent under that level of disturbance.

Every year, at least two new canoe shops open, and at around €20 it’s cheap as chips for a day on the river.

There is history to this — the Río Sella hosts a world-famous race in August — but it has turned into a monster that is destroying the very river it depends on.

We had guests visit who, after their tour at Wild Finca, went on to do the river. Their feedback:

When they mentioned they had booked it, I was in two minds about whether to share my thoughts — whether it was my place to speak honestly about something local, and whether our nature-loving guests would actually enjoy it.

It didn’t feel my place to bad-mouth local offerings.

I have no doubts now.

*Masificación turística y preocupación por el estado del río Sella​

*La masificación del Sella impulsa la regulación de canoas en los ríos asturianos​

2. The Music Festivals and the Rallies
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Over the summer, our valley hosts back-to-back music festivals (bringing up to 75,000 people to our little valley - with policing reports regularly recording hundreds of complaints and incidents over a single weekend) and car rallies.

During these times, if the river isn’t already overwhelmed by canoeing, it becomes so from the visitors — and driving through town, it can smell like a urinal.

Many don’t stay in local accommodation, and those who do, often leave damage behind. We have friends who ran a B&B who chose to close for those weekends rather than risk taking troublesome guests after one of their rooms was trashed.

As for the rallies — the boy racers on the roads make driving, or even walking, feel dangerous. No portaloos are set up, so the back of The Loop becomes another toilet, and our local routes are best avoided entirely.

Last year, illegal campers from one of the festivals set up along our village road and left bags of rubbish, which neighbours had to clean up.

Families from our local schools told us they couldn’t take their children to the playground because of drunks and broken glass.

These events don’t seem to bring meaningful income into the local area. The trend is that people don’t spend in restaurants — instead buying beers and tortillas from supermarkets (who, no doubt, do very well… but seem to be the only ones who do).

*Más de 500 denuncias y seis órdenes de detención: el balance del Aquasella​

*Cuatro detenidos por robo con fuerza en un Riverland Fest que también dejó 223 denuncias por consumo o tenencia de drogas​

3. The Wildlife and of course The Wolves

Last weekend, guests told us they had been specifically advised not to mention wolves to locals.

We disagree.

Mention the wolf. Mention the wildlife.

Because the reality is that until it has obvious value, it won’t be protected.

I felt this review we received last year captures exactly why we felt the need to write all of this:

Just because somewhere looks green and pleasant does not mean it holds true diversity.

If you found this interesting, you will enjoy my book No Paradise with Wolves, which covers our early years learning all of this.

All that said, we are under no illusion that anywhere is perfect, and we are truly happy here.

But sometimes it helps to share the realities.

So that when somewhere is voted the world’s most beautiful place, you can also see how important it is to protect it.

From our wild corner to yours,
​
Luke, Katie, Roan and Albus